This little taxi was the car we rode around in all day on our Pyramid adventures to the Giza Plateau, Saqqara, and Dashur.
Getting to all the Pyramids (the Step Pyramid, Red Pyramid, Bent Pyramid, and the Plateau) is essentially, well, impossible without a car of some sort. Of course this leaves you at the mercy of travel agencies and hostels who will try and charge outrageous fees per person just to drive you around for the day. But, being smart and unwilling to let yourself get taken advantage of can generally produce the desired results. With bargaining especially, it’s all about patience and confidence.
After leaving our third agency of the morning (we were quoted some absurd price like 200 E.P. per person and didn’t feel it worth it to even try and bargain) we were followed and hailed down by a short, stocky, and incredibly upbeat man. He introduced himself to us, and claimed he was a professional driver and that he could offer us a good fee for the day trip we had planned. He pointed us to the hotel where he worked, bragged about his father’s photo on the wall, and did his best to convince us to negotiate. We told him we’d think about it, and went on our way to explore other options.
By the afternoon we quickly realized this man may have been our best shot at a cheap ride, so we returned with a price in mind, ready to fight for it. Before any bargaining began he insisted we sit and have tea - a pretty standard process. When bargaining, in Islamic countries especially, it’s an event, and crucial for both parties to provide and accept hospitality. And it’s fun, too. You sit and drink mint tea, you make jokes, you bargain, each of you making it seem like there’s no possible way to go lower/higher, and you have fun with it. When Robb refused the tea at first, for example, our future driver was incredibly distressed until this err in the negotiation dance was corrected (i.e. Robb finally agreed to get himself a cup of tea).
When that step was completed, the real negotiation began. “I can offer you this much” he said. We countered with a lower price, claiming we were students/teachers and it was all we could afford. “But I’m providing you with an excellent service, and I’m telling you, you can’t get it for that price anywhere” he countered. “We still can’t afford that” we retorted. He launched into a story about his driving experience, about the struggles to afford gas and make a living, about the amazing trip he was going to provide for us. We listened patiently. “We respect that, but really, this is all we can afford” we responded firmly, raising our price by a few pounds. The process began again. More stories, more explanations, more excuses. “Well really, we can afford this much. And that’s our highest price” we ended, raising our starting price by a few more pounds. More back and fourth, more “I can’t do it for that low” and “that’s all we can afford” and finally, after 15 minutes, a deal was made for the price we wanted all along (of course more than we initially offered, and much less than he initially suggested). We shook hands, and finished our tea over jokes and plan making. The journey would start at 8:30am the next morning.